Tales of Kashmir

How a wetland became a forty-year emergency, and how a capital learned to live inside the smell of its own neglect. There is a version of Srinagar that exists only in postcards and reels — shikaras gliding through lotus-flecked water, snow-capped peak…

On the poet from Kaprin who chose the language of the orchard and the fireside over the language of institutional prestige, and spent a lifetime insisting it was never as powerless as the world assumed. In the winter of a village called Kaprin, in a c…

In Srinagar, one name carries two fates — a Prime Minister's, and a sweeper's. This is the story of a caste-like hierarchy that Kashmir has often insisted it doesn't have. Ask many Kashmiris whether their society has caste, and the answer …

A nomadic woman near Water Works Road. A girl with a cognitive disability in Kunzer. A twelve-year-old in Galwanpora. A woman filmed in a park in Jalsheeri. The honest answer to this question is not a simple yes or no, and it cannot be found in one st…

There is a hill above Srinagar where a saint has lain buried for four hundred and fifty years, and where people still climb the steep stairway to visit him. Almost everything known about him traces back to one devoted disciple's pen — and, further…