The embroidery and complex patterns on Jammu and Kashmir costumes are well known. It represents the region’s diverse culture and natural splendour. The type of apparel is intended to combat the area’s chilly environment.
Wearing traditional ethnic wear is a way of
expressing respect and affection for one another. It also acknowledges the
traditional beliefs that have been transmitted over generations.
A person is more than their
clothing. However, it is lovely to be associated with classic clothing.
Kashmiris identify themselves through their clothing. They cherish it as a
vital component of who they are. Pherans are solely a part of
Kashmiri's history, culture, and custom in that region.
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| A baby in Pheran | Image Source - Pinterest |
In the Kashmir Valley, pherans are the
customary attire for both men and women. Up until the late 19th century, people
often wore pherans that reached their feet. Today’s pheran is a more modern
form that extends to the level of the knees. It is made up of two dresses, worn
one on top of the other.
It is typically worn over a pooch that is
the same size as the pheran. However is made of cotton or another lightweight
fabric. Due to air’s ability to function as insulation, it offers
double-layered protection. The significant feature is that it prevents the
pheran from burning on Kangri. It is an earthenware container wrapped in wickerwork and filled with
simmering charcoal.
The original pheran is constructed of wool
to keep you warmer and does not have side slits. A cotton variant is used
during the summer for a short period. Detailed embroidery or floral
designs is a common feature of a Kashmiri females' pheran.
The floral designs or embroideries are
created using fine metal strands. This type of needlework is called as 'Tille'
in Kashmiri.
Pheran with "Tilli" embroidery | Image Source - Pinterest
There is no clarity on where the term ‘pheran’
came from. However, it looks like the term derives from the Iranian word
"perahan," which means a shirt. The Iranian culture
has heavily influenced Kashmir. Every scholar agrees that Pheran has been our
costume at least since the 15th century.
The root of Kashmiri pheran is the subject
of numerous tales. Others assert that the lengthy garment was first worn in the
Kashmir Valley by Mughal ruler Akbar. Others contend that Iranian travellers
created it. Because they needed a way to stay warm during Kashmir’s frigid
winters.
The background of this Kashmiri dress is
vast. Some historians date the beginning of Pheran to the first years of the
Christian period. They think that the Kushan people were the ones
who first brought this lovely dress. Similar dress characteristics have also
been found on a few Kushan-era statues and coinage. Most experts believe it is
a later creation.
According to Hiuen Tsang, the Kashmiri
people’s attire is comparable to the Iranians’. The word’s origins are
still unknown. Regardless of the dates, this country has a long-standing
practise of carrying pherans.
Originally, it was only worn in the winter.
However, later on, it became the trend for the entire year, especially among
women. Pheran were made of wool during the winter, while during
the summer they were made of cotton.
In Kashmir, there are many myths related to
Pheran. According to legend, Emperor Akbar was enraged because the Chaks
bravely and persistently resisted his commander, Qasim Khan. He made the
decision to dehumanise, weaken, and unman this nation’s citizens. So he forced
them, under penalty of death, to wear Pheran. It has prevented them from
engaging in combat and all other activities.
This theory states that the goal was to
make Kashmiris sluggish and lazy by forcing them to keep their hands
constantly on a heated kangari. It destroyed their military capabilities and
warrior attitude in opposition to the Mughal emperors.
According to Dr. GMD Sufi (D.
Lit.), if this tale were accurate, the Kashmiris would not have needed Kangari
at all. Sir Marc Aurel Stein thinks it’s a ridiculous tale. According to Pir Hassan
Shah, Pheran was first used under King Zain al Abidin.
Pheran has the longest history. It’s
thought that Kashmir is where the pheran first developed. Pheran used to be
more than just a fashion statement; it also served as a symbol of respect and
humility. Both males and females wore pherans in the summer and winter.
However, when it came to women in particular, pheran became an important part
of their lives. No issue what else they donned, the season, or where
they had to go, the pheran had to be hung up.
It was lovely to see all the women wearing
pherans in the most natural way possible. The impressions of women wearing
folded, patterned, sleeveless pherans with elbow slits—Korab Daar pherans—are
still visible. Making pherans has long been considered a form of craft in
Kashmir. There are pherans for different seasons, such as summer, winter, and
special events.
Previously, the woollen fabric used for
Pheran was either woven on domestic mills in Kashmir or brought from Punjab.
Now, all the materials used to make the Pheran are brought from places
other than Kashmir.
The Panditani/Kashmiri Hindu women used to
wear a long length of cotton fabric called a lungi. They used to wear it around
their waists over Pheran, and they would never leave the house without it.
However, it is no longer common for Kashmiri Panditanis to wear a belt around
their waists while wearing a pheran. Despite the fact that many adolescent
Muslim males in Kashmir enjoy doing so.
According to Pandit Anand Koul, every
Kashmiri Hindu/Pandit used to take a Qalamdani (pen case) with him wherever he
went. It was tied either under his armpit or around his waist over his
Pheran.
Earlier, the Pherans’ colours were only red
and blue. But as the textile industry has developed, the materials now come in
every colour. Men tend to prefer pale colours, whereas women typically prefer
vibrant colours. Nowadays young Kashmiri boys prefer black and gloomy
colours. They also prefer round collars, buckles at the cuffs, and
girdles at the hips. It has given Pheran the appearance of a gown or cloak.
Both males and females have nearly
identical pheran. However, the women’s phenan arms are broader than the men’s.
The Kashmiri women now prefer to add a feminine element to Pheran.
They add embroidery to it in the form of
zari-work or multi-coloured threads. This comes in the form of exquisite
blossoms and patterns. It appears to be done at the bottom and around the
neck (naal) as a natural inclination to appear graceful
and pretty.
Men prefer plain pherans without any
embroidery patterns or styles. Married women have expensive Tilla-work made on
their Pherans by tilla-dozs or embroiderers. Tilla has a flair for royalty,
using golden and silver strands to embroider Pherans, etc.
Parents often give their daughters Tilla-embroidered
pherans as bridal presents. When girls are married in Kashmir, they make up a
special portion of Verdan (parental gifts).
Huge warming is probably the most
noteworthy utilisation of pheran. It serves as a protection from the bitter
winter. With its extending and open fit, a person can put on more clothing
before placing it on. It could be compared to a cosy robe. Families gather
together in their own pheran, sometimes sharing a kangri and the conversations.
Little ones frequently sit next to their
mothers as the heat of the room warms them from within. Pheran is an essential
component of female marriages. In fact, pherans are so deeply ingrained in
culture that it is expected for newlyweds to have at least one
Tilli-embroidered pheran.
The “modern-day” Persian offers countless
opportunities. You can have it manufactured in whichever design and fit
suit you. And currently, every generational group has a preferred Protestant.
It’s important to note that Pheran transitioned from a casual outfit. One that
was worn for informal meetings or one that was worn in homes—to business
settings.
Both males and females put on pherans when
heading to work. It is worn by both boys and girls to attend class or go on
casual excursions. Many teens also prefer hooded pherans. It has the added
benefit of protecting the wearer’s head from snow and icy waves.
Every Kashmiri, whether they live in
Australia or California, is proud of their heritage. Pheran has, over the past
several centuries, come to represent Kashmir.